Put a large saucepan of water with salt on a high heat to boil.
Meanwhile, place a wide pan on a high heat, add in the three tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil and the butter. When the butter is melted and hot, add in the finely sliced garlic cloves and stir for a few seconds until the garlic turns a very light golden. Immediately add the cut wild-garlic leaves, the grated nutmeg, and some salt and freshly ground black pepper to season. Stir over the high heat for a few seconds until the wild-garlic leaves wilt, then take the pan off the heat and set aside.
Put the fresh or dried pasta, whichever you’re using, in the boiling salted water and stir – remove the lid once the water comes to the boil. Fresh pasta will take a couple of minutes to cook; if you’re using dried pasta, it will take longer.
Once the pasta is al dente, drain it, but make sure to reserve about 200ml (7fl oz) of the cooking water (you may not need all of it). Pour 25ml (1fl oz) of the cooking water in to the al dente pasta, stir and set aside.
Now put the wild-garlic mixture back on a high heat, allow it to get hot, then add the pasta to the wide pan – if the pan with the wild garlic is not large enough to take all the pasta, you’ll need to do it the other way round. Now add about 50-75ml (2-3 fl oz) of the reserved cooking water to the pot, just enough to get it a little bit juicy and steamy. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt, freshly ground black pepper or nutmeg if necessary. To serve, tip into a wide, warm serving bowl, and scatter the grated hard cheese on top.